Term vintage is often thrown around when talking about jeans or other apparel for that matter. However, what really makes the garment vintage? Is it the style, the materials or the brand name? Vintage can refer to an item of a certain period of time, or an item possessing qualities that belong into a particular era.

One of the most essential elements of vintage denim is the selvedge (also referred to as selvage). The term originates from term self-edge, a natural non-fraying edge in a fabric. The selvedge often includes stitching in a contrasting color, which was originally used to differentiate between different types of fabric. Selvedge is proof of the fabric being only weaved by the vintage looms called “Shuttle Looms”.

Shuttle looms were originally invented in England in 1785 and later developed in Japan by Sakichi Toyoda in 1890s’. Shuttle looming is time consuming but produces a tight weave and thus heavier long lasting fabric. Today the traditional production method has nearly disappeared due to demand for lower cost mass production of denim following the popularization of modern looms designed for mass production.

Shuttle looms are still fundamental in creating true vintage denim. Though selvedge denim is not the only form of genuine vintage denim it is often considered to be of higher quality. Producing heavy ounce denim with a classic vintage feel requires careful selection of right looms to retain the original character of the denim.

Although the classic weaving techniques are seldom used today, denim artisans in their pursuit to create high quality denim have harnessed the classic weaving processes and still keep the traditions alive.