I’ve had few posts about the Vintage elements of the jeans so will still continue on that…

In addition to the shuttle looms and natural indigo dye, another important aspect in the production of Vintage denim is the sewing.

At the early stages of the Japanese denim industry, production equipment including Union Special sewing machines were mainly imported from USA. This was changed in the late 1970′s when the domestic producers introduced mainstream equipment more suited to the needs of mass production, increasing efficiency and replacing the classic imported models.

The modern sewing machines used for mass production have differences due to their structure especially when it comes to chain stitching. Chain stitching used to be the default mode in sewing machines, but was later replaced by so called lock stitch. In a chain stitch you have two threads that form a chain like lock together forming a much stronger stitching than single stitching. Lock stitch again is considered stronger form of stitching using two threads (upper and lower) locking together in the hole in the fabric creating identical stitching to both sides. This method however does not provide the thick stitch-line at the hem seen on majority of the selvage jeans. Denim enthusiasts would also highlight that the jeans can not be considered vintage, without been sewn with the “Rolls Royce” of sewing machines, the Union Special.

Thus even today the denim artisans who want to create the finest denim wear still use the classic machines not produced in 40 years to provide us with garments that can truly  be considered Vintage.

Now I am off to enjoy the rest of Sunday…