I’m sure by now most of you have seen the interview of Masahiro Suwaki, the Vice President of the Japan Blue Group. In his interview, he stated something that tells a lot about the global denim culture and trend as a whole. “It is disappointing, but the population of people who truly understand denim are on the decline in Japan. This I feel is especially true for people who like fashion than the “average” person.” This does not only apply to Japan but it’s a worldwide phenomenon. The classic denim labels feel the pressure to adjust to the global demand and to people asking “why would I spend 300$ on a pair of jeans when I can buy a pair of this brand for half of that price?” It’s a fair question but kin of highlights the issue, where price and style often go before tradition (and in some cases quality). Momotaro Jeans, a brand under Rampuya and Japan Blue Group is no different from any other brand. They have goals to reach and the Momotaro Jeans brand, established in 2006 also needs to reach certain numbers not just in Japan but worldwide.

The brand has created a status a strong, authentic Vintage Denim brand, respected by denim connoisseurs worldwide, but the niche market for the authentic Vintage Denim is relatively small, in comparison to the mass markets after style over “Made in Kojima, Okayama by hand without compromise” label. Something they can associate with and get that style they want. This is why Japan Blue Group created Japan Blue Jeans brand. I have and still criticize the group for the brand name. And I stick to my opinion, the brand name causes confusion between Momotaro Jeans, Japan Blue and Japan Blue Group. Those who know the ins and outs of the labels know the deal but for others it might be difficult to distinct between the brands. It all goes back to the original Group name, which was (and still is) used quite actively across Momotaro Jeans brand and products. The new brand however starts to raise questions between what’s Momotaro Jeans and what’s Japan Blue and what’s the difference? Well, as mentioned in the past Japan Blue is high quality Japanese denim by Collect Co that has end production in a friend factory in China. Momotaro Jeans which is under Rampuya is high quality Japanese Denim made in Japan. As discussed with our friends from the Japan Blue Group, Momotaro Jeans is about that authentic Vintage Denim and Japan Blue again is more washes and cuts following the trends and consumer demand. I respect this distinction and separation of the brands, just not the choice of brand name.

Having seen Japan Blue Jeans in person, I can speak no evil about it. High quality denim available at an affordable price. Just not something for me. Still what I like is that it offers the people new to Japanese Denim a good way to get to know the products and then step their game up with Momotaro Jeans. Something like a gateway. The worst possible move by Momotaro Jeans would have been to establish a lower end label under Momotaro Jeans brand in chase of profits. As discussed, some brands have done this and ended up losing their core audience, the true believers (ah, the Marvel reference). A very dangerous step but something many brands take in order to expand and get their brand to more and more people. Last year during the introduction of Europe Label, many people already got an idea that the Europe Label jeans (although produced same as all other Momotaro Jeans) were produced as a Euro Line somewhere else such as ones by some unnamed brands. A diffusion line not made in Japan. Small misunderstanding brewing from a name can already spark interesting conversations that can lead to a broken phone effect.

The above step is my biggest fear with any of our brands. The fear that someday we get a call or email from our friends telling us about step like this. It is very comforting to read Masahiro’s answer to a question about shops carrying the brand in the States: “You know, even though things may not lead to big business right away we don’t really care. We would like people to know about us though.” They are living in the present and doing what they do best, and this is something that has gotten the brand appreciation across the world.

One thing that was somewhat left out as Tim from the Blog pointed out, the future of Momotaro Jeans. Well living in the present tells something, but what is the future of a Vintage Denim label such as Momotaro Jeans? One thing that Momotaro Jeans is doing right is the collaborations, the ones with KIKS TYO, Naked & Famous or the store specific ones such as Take-5, Blue in Green or Context. These collaborations mix the right qualities of the brand with the already known name and status of the other brands. The Naked & Famous collaboration has been hugely popular and the KIKS TYO although only releases in February 2011 is not far behind. Collaborations are great, a way to bring together the best of two worlds so to speak. One of the things that has made the N&F collaboration so popular is the Skinny Guy cut. The demand is on tight jeans and this design answers this demand. One of the main reasons Momotaro Jeans has not produced skinny cut is that it’s a Vintage line that uses heavy oz denim, which again does not mix well with this particular design that is at its best with lighter denim. This is exactly why heavy oz Ladies’ lines are always challenging. But since the public wants this, isn’t a brand supposed to meet this demand?

This brings us to something I have spoken of with the guys at Momotaro Jeans and the upcoming trade shows reminded me about the upcoming collaboration by Japan Blue Jeans, with none other than Momotaro Jeans titled Momotaro Jeans by Japan Blue. Yes, it is a collaboration between two brands under same umbrella. The first thing you need to know is that it is a collaboration for Japan Blue Jeans made by Japan Blue Jeans not Momotaro Jeans. But having seen the jeans and the title, I don’t blame anyone for getting confused.

Pictures courtesy of Okiya.

We had long chats about the distinction between the two brands and how the confusion between the two brands can actually affect the existing brand. This particular collaboration raises that exact concern. You see Momotaro Jeans, with Momotaro Jeans characteristics, but these jeans are made by Japan Blue and not Momotaro Jeans. Still the denim comes from the same address, so what’s the difference? A gateway to buy Momotaro Jeans for potentially lower price. The fits of this collaboration hit the nail, Tight Straight 0700SP and Skinny Straight 0100SP. These are meeting the demand of the general public and they have the Momotaro Tag, right move right? Well you can have few opinions about it. My personal opinion is that although being a collaboration, this collaboration is dangerously close to taking that step I mentioned above. Momotaro Jeans, that just aren’t Momotaro Jeans. Yes, they are under Japan Blue Jeans label and they are different but does the public know that. Does the consumer know the difference between the brands? The way I see this is as a trial to expand the brand name, and make it available to even more people, to even bigger stores with even more customers. But is this really the way to do it? One of the worst things Jimmy Choo did was a collaboration with H&M. I am sure the shoes sold like hot cakes, but what about the brand image? The established status? But is that what this is really all about, status? Aren’t jeans but pants for all steps of life? Brand’s name and established image are the base and foundation for its existence. It takes a very small fracture to break this establishment. It has happened to many brands whom have had to work really hard to get back their roots, the perceived image people really loved before it all collapsed in attempt to please everyone. But what’s the trade-off, remain a small name among the giants, or take that step and battle a whole different market, with whole different consumer groups. As much as I respect Momotaro Jeans and Japan Blue, I am not a fan of their latest mash-up and I feel it has taken a step too close to crossing a certain unspoken line.

I think this is a very up-to-date topic, raises questions and hopefully starts some conversation. The guys in Japan asked for feedback and I have openly given this feedback, the good and the bad with all sorts of things. There’s always to sides to a coin and things are never that straight forward, but let us know what you think. Feel free to comment or post a shout on the Soap Box.

For more information about Japan Blue Jeans 2011 lineup, check out Okiya.